Another year is coming to an end, and I want to thank all of you for following me and encouraging me to keep up my blog. When I started it almost two years ago, I never imagined I would still be crocheting and writing new patterns today. I wish you all a very happy and successful 2012.
I know there are already lots of owl amigurumi patterns available, but I like to think that this one is a little different. Its oval bottom gives it a nice cushiony shape, great for cuddling. And the crocheted eyes cannot be pulled off. It's made from the bottom up and the wings are crocheted in as you go. I tried several yarns for this pattern, but the best result by far comes by using a 4mm hook and aran yarn (the owl on the right). I particularly love the Debbie Bliss eco aran yarn and will be buying some more of it to make lots more owls that I hope to sell at our local organic market
Organic yarn and the fact that this pattern does not use any buttons or beads makes this a suitable toy for babies and young children. I always line my amigurmis to stop any stuffing from escaping, and the organic owls have a lining made from a recycled cotton sheet.
-- Note added on 10th July when I found someone had copied this pattern and said she had written it herself:
Please do not sell this pattern. Do not post this pattern to any website, but link directly to my blog. No file sharing of this pattern.
Are you ready? Here's the pattern:
Stitches used:
sc single crochet
ss slip stitch
dc double crochet
I recommend Debbie Bliss 100% organic cotton eco aran fair trade yarn and I used a 4 mm crochet hook for the main body. For the eyes and beak I used Debbie Bliss ecobaby 100% cotton fairtrade yarn and a 3mm hook.
You can can use one, two, three or several colours for your owl. Just remember to make the wings before starting on the rows in the body of the owl using the same colour so that you don't need to cut off and start over again! I'd even suggest you make the wings first, so that's what I'll begin this pattern with.
Wings (make 2) (using aran yarn)
Rnd 1 - ch 14, join to first ch with a ss to make a ring.
Rnd 2 - 2ch, 1 dc in each chain to end , join to the top of 2 ch (14 dc)
Rnd 3 - 1 sc in each st (14 sc)
Rnd 4 - [sc2tog, 1 sc in next 5 st] twice (12 sc)
Rnd 5 - [sc2tog, 1 sc in next 4 st] twice (10 sc)
Rnd 6 - sc around
Rnd 7 - sc2tog 5 times.
Finish off leaving a tail of yarn, weave the yarn through the last 5 sts, pull tight to close. Weave in ends.
Eyes (make 2) (using baby yarn)
Rnd 1 - With dark colour, sc 6 into a magic circle, don't join with a slipstitch
Rnd 2 - Join light colour and slst into first sc of the magic circle, then work 2 sc into each st (12 sc)
Rnd 3 - *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, rep from * to end. Fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn to sew the eyes on to the owl's face.
Pull the ends tight so that the "pupil" looks OK.
Beak (using baby yarn)
Rnd 1 - make a magic circle, ch 3 and then work 5 dc into the magic circle, join with a slst to the top of the 3 ch
Rnd 2 - * 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, rep from * to end (9 sts)
Rnd 3 - 1 sc in each st around (9 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn to sew the beak on to the owl's face.
Body (worked from the bottom up)
Rnd 1 - ch 10. 1 sc in 3rd chain from hook (and mark this st), 1 sc in each of next 6 ch. 3sc in next ch, then work down the other side of the length of ch, with 1sc in each of the next 7 ch and 3 sc in the space made by the 2 missed ch you started with. (20 sts)
Rnd 2 - * 1 sc in each of next 7 sts, 2sc in each of next 3 sts, rep from * once again (26 sts)
Rnd 3 - * 1 sc in each of next 7 sts, [2sc in next st, 1 sc in next st] 3 times, rep from * once again (32 sts)
Rnd 4 - * 1 sc in each of next 7 sts, [1 sc in each of next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times, rep from * once again (38 sts)
Rnd 5-16 - sc around, changing colours at rnd 14 and 16 (optional)
Rnd 17 - sc 14, join the first wing with 7sc, working through the two layers of the wing and the layer of the body, sc 12, join the second wing with 7sc (the 5th , 6th and 7th sc are the first three sts of the next rnd). Make sure the 1st st of the rnd is still marked.
Flatten the body to make sure that the wings are symmetrical (there are more stitches at the front, for the owl's tummy, than at the back, this is normal). If it's not symmetrical you might have to add or remove a sc before of after starting the 2nd wing.
Rnd 18-22 - sc around
Rnd 23 - * 1 sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog, continue from * to end
Rnd 24 - sc around
Sew on the eyes and the beak now.
Flatten your owl to make sure that when you join it at the top it will look right. If necessary, sc 1 or 2 extra stitches.
Line (optional) and stuff your owl.
Rnd 25 - (working through both layers of the top of the owl) ch 2, 1 dc in next 2 sts, sc to last 3 sts, 1 dc in each of last 3 sts, fasten off and weave in ends.
Please let me know if you have any questions or if I have made any mistakes. I always read all comments so don't hesitate!
And I would very much like to see photos of your owls!
Here are some more of mine: